Photo Gallery: Dynamic Chiloé

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Editors Note: This is the sixth article in our special series "Travel in Los Lagos," sponsored by Sernatur Los Lagos. 

Text and photos by Nicholas Gill
 
 
One of southern Chile’s most dynamic places for its landscape, food and culture is Chiloé, the stunningly beautiful archipelago hanging off of continental Chile, but twisted in some distinctive form. Though the main island can be reached via a short ferry ride across the Chacao Channel from the mainland, Chiloé has developed in large part in insolation, forming a culture unlike anywhere else in the country.
 
This is a place where tales of mythological figures such as sirens, witches and ghost ships are woven into the fabric of daily life. These superstitions were originally a product of the indigenous Huiliche communities, but when the Spanish arrived Chilote folklore began to fuse with elements of Christianity. That transition was sped forward greatly when Jesuit missionaries built hundreds of wood shingle churches, many of which are now UNESCO World Heritage sites.
 
The archipelago is a place of rolling green hills, dramatic beaches, and thick temperate forests, which together form one of the most unique collections of flora and fauna in South America. That ecological diversity has also helped give Chiloé one of Chile’s most distinct regional cuisines.  While curanto - a potluck of meat, shellfish, and tubers that are cooked in an earthen oven – is the most representative dish, there’s much more to be found here. Traditionally a seafaring culture, the diet here is rich in fish and shellfish, as well as aquatic plants, though the patchwork of green pastures provides grazing room for lambs as fine as any in Patagonia and the growing of potatoes, which are used in almost everything.
 
Modern Chiloé is increasingly leaning on its past. In the capital of Castro the iconic palafitos, stilted wood buildings, are being turned into cafes and boutique hotels, effectively preserving them. Modern architects are building structures that resemble the hulls of ships. Natural resources, such as the Puñihuil penguin colony or the forests and swampland of Chiloé National Park, are being protected with help from the increasing number of tourists. An airport, Mocopulli, is even in operation here now, which means you can reach Castro by flights from Santiago and Puerto Montt, though the ferry system is more efficient than it has even been.
 
 
1. The cushy, all-inclusive 12-room Refugia Lodge on an isolated shore outside of Castro, used master Chilote woodcarvers to create the furniture and frame, while they filled it with hand spun, naturally dyed textiles from the archipelago. 1. The cushy, all-inclusive 12-room Refugia Lodge on an isolated shore outside of Castro, used master Chilote woodcarvers to create the furniture and frame, while they filled it with hand spun, naturally dyed textiles from the archipelago.
 

 

2. Licor de Oro is a typical, golden hued alcoholic drink made from saffron, milk, lemon peels, cloves, cinnamon and other ingredients made in the town of Chonchi. 2. Licor de Oro is a typical, golden hued alcoholic drink made from saffron, milk, lemon peels, cloves, cinnamon and other ingredients made in the town of Chonchi.

 

3. Ostras Caulin, on a beach up the coast from Ancud, serves oysters, which it gets out of the ocean directly in front of the restaurant, as a crema (cream soup), fried, or raw. 3. Ostras Caulin, on a beach up the coast from Ancud, serves oysters, which it gets out of the ocean directly in front of the restaurant, as a crema (cream soup), fried, or raw.

 

4. Lamb is the star of Quinchao’s annual Fiesta de Cordero. Here, shearing contests and other competitions are held, though eating lamb, roasted over a spit, and other regional specialties also draw a crowd. 4. Lamb is the star of Quinchao’s annual Fiesta de Cordero. Here, shearing contests and other competitions are held, though eating lamb, roasted over a spit, and other regional specialties also draw a crowd.

 

5. Chochoco is one of the island’s traditional snacks. The potato-based dough is formed around around a long wooden stick, which is then roasted over a fire. Afterwards it is stuffed with meat and then rolled up.5. Chochoco is one of the island’s traditional snacks. The potato-based dough is formed around around a long wooden stick, which is then roasted over a fire. Afterwards it is stuffed with meat and then rolled up.

 

6. The unspoiled beach at Achao, the largest town on the small island of Quinchao, reach by ferry from the main island.6. The unspoiled beach at Achao, the largest town on the small island of Quinchao, reach by ferry from the main island.

 

7. Palafitos, wood buildings on stilts over the water, are some of the oldest forms of Chilote architecture. While these iconic buildings were once common on the archipelago, the best examples, such as these, today can be found in Castro. 7. Palafitos, wood buildings on stilts over the water, are some of the oldest forms of Chilote architecture. While these iconic buildings were once common on the archipelago, the best examples, such as these, today can be found in Castro.

 

8. The spine of the Patagonian Andes makes one of the most fantastic backdrops from Chiloé.8. The spine of the Patagonian Andes makes one of the most fantastic backdrops from Chiloé.

 

9. Lef, a two level restaurant at the Espejo de Luna lodge, on a remote piece of coast between Castro and Quellón shows the influence of the archipelago’s past on modern architecture.9. Lef, a two level restaurant at the Espejo de Luna lodge, on a remote piece of coast between Castro and Quellón shows the influence of the archipelago’s past on modern architecture.

 

10. The Puñihuil penguin colony, explored by skiff from a beach near Ancud, is the only place on earth where both Magellanic and Humboldt penguins nest together.10. The Puñihuil penguin colony, explored by skiff from a beach near Ancud, is the only place on earth where both Magellanic and Humboldt penguins nest together.

 

11. Jesuit missionaries built hundreds of these wood shingle churches across the Chiloé island chain in attempt to convert the islanders. Many, such as this church in Achao, are UNESCO world heritage sights.11. Jesuit missionaries built hundreds of these wood shingle churches across the Chiloé island chain in attempt to convert the islanders. Many, such as this church in Achao, are UNESCO world heritage sights.

 

HOW TO GO 
LAN airlines has frequent flights to Castro’sMocopulli airport from Puerto Montt and Santiago. Buses, originating across southern Chile, and cars connect to Chiloé via ferry across the Straight of Chcao.

Lodgings
In Castro,Palafito 1326 (www.palafito1326.cl) has rooms from $US 107 set in apalafito house in the Gamboa district. Outside of Castro, on a hill above Reloncaví Sound, Refugia Lodge (www.refugia.cl) has all inclusive rooms with full meals, drinks, and guided excursions from $US 530 per person. In Ancud, Nuevo Mundo Hostal (www.newworld.cl), facing the Bay of Ancud, has rooms from $US 46, as well as less expensive dorm beds.
 
Restaurants
Mercadito (www.elmercaditodechiloe.cl) near Castro’s waterfront serves farm/boat to table fare. On the way to Quellón, Lef (www.espejodeluna.cl), a contemporary two level restobar inside of the hull of an overturned boat at the Espejo de la Luna lodge, is excellent. Ostras Caulin (www.ostrascaulin.cl), on a beach outside of Ancud, serves oysters, pulled from the mudflats directly in front of the restaurant that day, in a dozen different ways.
 
Writer and photographer Nicholas Gill lives in Lima, Peru and Brooklyn, New York. His work appears in publications such as the New York Times, Wall Street Journal, Conde Nast Traveler, Saveur, Bon Appétit, and New York Magazine. He also publishes NewWorldReview.com,  a blog on Latin American food, drinks, & travel.