Travel Insider

Trekking in Cochamo Valley

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A few weeks ago I headed out for a solo trek through Cochamo Valley. Only a few hours from Puerto Varas, it has been hailed as the new Yosemite, a climber's mecca perched above a damp, dark rainforest alongside the Cochamo River, whose hues range from clear to teal. To get there, you have to wade through mud, cross a river on a slippery trunk and brush the brambles from your shins. With a pack, it takes around five hours to reach a new refugio with a panorama of granite peaks. From there, trails sprout to waterfalls, granite walls and peaks. Goodbye world. 
 

Springtime in Tantauco

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This past spring was one of rainiest on record in Chile. The ground was wet and oozing. The sun—when it surfaced—a frail lemon ray lost in grey horizons.
 
But I found myself on the way to Parque Tantauco to backpack with a friend. Of our original group, four had already bailed. Yet we persisted, probably against better judgment. 
 
It was simple: the southern winter is long. We wanted movement. We wanted outdoors.
 

Body by Torres

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6 days, 101 kilometers. You have to believe in your own willpower. And cute nicknames. At least that's how Christian did it.

A self-described "office boy," my friend actually works within Torres del Paine National Park, chained to a desk and a radio. So he sprang straight out of his swivel chair to join us on the circuit. The object? Weight loss. He said he was tired of being the solo guanaco macho .

 

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Carolyn McCarthy

Carolyn

With articles in National Geographic, the Boston Globe and other publications, Carolyn McCarthy writes about wilderness travel and all things Latin American. She has penned eight travel guides and counting for Lonely Planet, including most recently Trekking in the Patagonian Andes, published in November 2009. A former Fulbright and Banff Mountain Culture grantee, Carolyn resides in southern Chile.

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