Update: The Mountaineering Commission met in Bavšica, Slovenia in March, 2013 to discuss among other things a training course for sport climbing that was submitted by the Federación de Andinismo de Chile
(FEACH). The Training Standards Panel reviewed the proposal and is pleased to report that the course has been accredited by the UIAA - International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. With the approval, Chile becomes the the first South American country (and Federation) to hold a UIAA Training Label for Sport Climbing.
- The Federación de Andinismo
de Chile (FEACH) along with the UIAA Training Standards panel is hosting its first UIAA-approved seminar in South America in the mountains around Santiago, Chile.
- Those amazing Belgian big-wall free climbers have been at it again, this time in Patagonia, where three Belgians did the first free ascents of a pair of routes in Torres del Paine National Park (Chile), and then two of them went on to free a huge new route on Fitz Roy in Argentina.
- Just one dozen adventurers crossed the finish line in Punta Arenas last month after 44 competitors set out on a 10 day, 435 mile (701 km) race from Puerto Natales, trekking, biking, and kayaking
across the wilds of Chilean Patagonia.
- There are a lot of papers, blogs, and opinions out there about how climate change may impact global temperature or rainfall for generations to come.Finding solid information on what climate change may mean for winds and waves over the ocean hasn't been as easy to come by. That just changed.In a recent article published in Nature Climate Change
, researchers have concluded that annual average wave heights will be smaller
than current averages over a larger percentage of the globe compared to where they will be bigger by the end of this century. The greatest decreases were noted over the North Atlantic, North Pacific, and Indian Ocean during the Northern Hemisphere winter months (January, February, and March).
- The Patagonian Expedition Race, held in southern Chile each February, has been dubbed “the last wild race.” It is one of the world’s most death-defying organized sporting events, a 10-day wilderness immersion
where teams go far off-grid and do battle with deep forests, mountain passes, fjords, rivers, and swamps. This is all in the name of finding checkpoints on a map and, eventually, after hundreds of miles, the finish line.
- An enormous variety of rivers are found in Chile’s geography, of characteristics, size and shape that are splendid habitats for different species of trout and salmon brought over to Chile almost a hundred years ago. It’s why Chile is considered one of the best venues for enjoying fly fishing – the quality of the fish, the purity of the waters and the awesome natural surroundings in each fly fishing area are a still clarion call to all lovers of this sport.
Rock and Ice - French alpinists Lise Billon, François Poncet, Jeremy Stagnetto, Jerome Sullivan and Spaniard Pedro Diaz have put up a new line on the southeast ridge of Cerro Murallón in Patagonia.
They climbed Pillar del Sol Naciente (5.12b A1 WI 6 M6) over the course of nine days and placed 15 bolts at belays. The “Pillar of the Rising Sun” is a 3,300 foot line that was first attempted in 1974 by Jose Luis and Rafael Juarez, both of Argentina.
NatGeo Adventure - Many climbers consider the slender granite spike Cerro Torre to be the most beautiful peak in the world. Since Italian Cesare Maestri claimed—likely fraudulently—to reach this Patagonian summit in 1959, the peak has certainly been the most controversial. Technically, it is much more difficult than climbing Everest; there are some years when no climbers make it to the top of Cerro Torre.
- Above and beyond the sheer variety of fly fishing opportunities on offer in Patagonia, visiting anglers are most often taken aback by the serene solitude
of fishing in this vast wilderness.
“You can fish in Patagonia for days without seeing another fisherman,” Mauricio Salazar, cofounder of Fly Fishing Encounter, told ThisisChile. “I think the magic of fly fishing in Chile is the purity of the water and wilderness. The trout streams of the south are so clear, and we do it the wild way, without fisheries. The environment is amazing, you’re fishing in streams surrounded by volcanoes, native forests, and bird life.”
PlanetMoutain.com - Interview with Sweden's Andreas Fransson who on 19/09/2012 made the first ski descent of the Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia.
Last time we caught up with Andreas Fransson was back in July 2011 when the extreme skier had just made waves with his courageous first ski descent of Denali's inhospitable South Face. In the meantime the 29-year-old certified ski instructor and trainee mountain guide has been leaving his steep tracks across the globe but his recent ski - the awesome Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia's Fitz Roy massif - makes all these shrink in comparison. Fransson was accompanied by his skiing buddy Bjarne Sahlén to the Bergshrund and he then continued up the exposed ramp alone to make what he described as "one of the most challenging runs in my life". This is what he told us: