A four day trek around Fitz Roy

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"It's called the Guillaumet pass. It's generally used by climbers. There's a little crevasse danger but as long as the weather holds it'd be fine. You'd be right underneath Monte Fitz Roy."
 
The e-mail I'd opened was from a 29-year old Argentinean mountain guide, Pedro Fina. I'd first met Pedro in 2004, when he was one of two guides I'd had on a 4-week trekking expedition in South America. During that trip, we'd climbed a glacier beside two of the great peaks of the Patagonian Andes, Monte Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, and traversed a small portion of the Southern Patagonian Ice Cap, a flat expanse of thick ice - 13,000km2 - that flows west from the mountains and down into the Pacific Ocean.
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Waking up in Puerto Varas

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Winter mornings in Puerto Varas, Chile, start slow.  As I stumbled out of my overnight bus ride from the capital Santiago at 9:25 a.m., I was welcomed by silent and empty streets.  Even the stray dogs, numerous in Chile, do not feel it necessary to start their daily prowl for food until 10.

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Whales, beaching and shamans

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There was a close relationship between the Selk’nam and the whales. Could shamans make these huge animals get stranded on the beach? 
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Film Review: "Patagonia Rising"

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As the Patagonia Sin Represas campaign continues to deal blows to HidroAysen’s plan to dam two of Chilean Patagonia’s wildest rivers, a new documentary is educating audiences in Chile and the U.S. about the complexities of this issue.  “Patagonia Rising,” directed by Brian Lilla, and produced by Greg Miller and Scott Douglas, illuminates the many facets of the struggle to save Patagonia’s rivers.
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Bariloche: Winter wonderland once more

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Normally in July, Bariloche, Argentina, is a month into ski season. Cerro Catedral, Bariloche’s launch point into the Andes Mountains, overflows with ski schools, tourists, and locals all vying to ski the resort’s groomed slopes, backcountry trails, and terrain park. But this winter has been marred by the potent combination of Chile’s Puyehue Volcano eruption, whose ashes have disrupted flights all over Argentina, and a rare lack of snow.

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